photographs by simon watson styling by kim ficaro clothing styling by lauren goodman market editor monika biegler eyers
Born centuries ago in the Scottish
Highlands, revived in the 1970s by British
punks and now everywhere in fashion,
this bold and versatile design is never out
of style. Reinterpreted for new settings and
combined with modern elements, it’s the
freshest way to take classic for a spin.
Highlands, revived in the 1970s by British
punks and now everywhere in fashion,
this bold and versatile design is never out
of style. Reinterpreted for new settings and
combined with modern elements, it’s the
freshest way to take classic for a spin.
on pillows and throws
Decorative accessories are a commitment-free way to try
out the trend and give your room a seasonal makeover.
Here, the simple combination of a red-checked pillow and
a complementary cashmere throw bestows wintry warmth
on a minimalist living room. The light, neutral palettes
of the fabrics (these plaids with a white background are
known as “dress tartans”) are key: Thick, dark ones would
be too heavy in such a spare and silvery setting.
Decorative accessories are a commitment-free way to try
out the trend and give your room a seasonal makeover.
Here, the simple combination of a red-checked pillow and
a complementary cashmere throw bestows wintry warmth
on a minimalist living room. The light, neutral palettes
of the fabrics (these plaids with a white background are
known as “dress tartans”) are key: Thick, dark ones would
be too heavy in such a spare and silvery setting.
on seat cushions and floors
There are more than 5,500 registered
"setts" (or patterns) in existence—but
because they simply don’t clash, you can
mix them with abandon. In this mod salon,
we used four fabrics (from a company
based in the wee Scottish village of
Peebles, known for its huge range of
historic tartans) to make seat covers for a
set of iconic ’50s Saarinen Tulip chairs. On
the floor, a "hunting tartan"—a design of
subdued colors meant to blend with the
natural environment—operates like a
neutral to ground the plaid party around
the table.
There are more than 5,500 registered
"setts" (or patterns) in existence—but
because they simply don’t clash, you can
mix them with abandon. In this mod salon,
we used four fabrics (from a company
based in the wee Scottish village of
Peebles, known for its huge range of
historic tartans) to make seat covers for a
set of iconic ’50s Saarinen Tulip chairs. On
the floor, a "hunting tartan"—a design of
subdued colors meant to blend with the
natural environment—operates like a
neutral to ground the plaid party around
the table.
on walls and lamp shades
Upholstering the walls in masculine
wool transforms a typically formal
dining room into a cozy, pass-the-port
oasis. Keeping the floor bare, and
going with a white tablecloth and
chairs, offers an airy contrast. With a
pattern similar to the Gunn clan tartan,
shades bring unexpected jauntiness
to a blown-glass chandelier.
Upholstering the walls in masculine
wool transforms a typically formal
dining room into a cozy, pass-the-port
oasis. Keeping the floor bare, and
going with a white tablecloth and
chairs, offers an airy contrast. With a
pattern similar to the Gunn clan tartan,
shades bring unexpected jauntiness
to a blown-glass chandelier.
as a decorative element
Hung in any odd-man-out space where art
would feel cramped—a corner of a large
kitchen, a long corridor—a casual assemblage
of checked handmade stoneware (from a
Scottish company known for reinterpreting
old-school Scot style) and neutral vintage
plates delivers visual bang that’s still homey.
A Gustavian sofa covered in a ticking stripe fits
in with the plates’ menswear-ish patterns, and
a couple of wool pillows that echo the muted
palette complete the down-to-earth tableau.
Hung in any odd-man-out space where art
would feel cramped—a corner of a large
kitchen, a long corridor—a casual assemblage
of checked handmade stoneware (from a
Scottish company known for reinterpreting
old-school Scot style) and neutral vintage
plates delivers visual bang that’s still homey.
A Gustavian sofa covered in a ticking stripe fits
in with the plates’ menswear-ish patterns, and
a couple of wool pillows that echo the muted
palette complete the down-to-earth tableau.
“What does the bagpipe-playing
Scotsman of yore have in common with
Catholic schoolgirls today? Their tartan
skirts, of course,”says domino's Antiquarian, Louis
Bofferding. “A kilt is a type of skirt, after all, and many of
those Scottish Highlanders—leery of their Protestant English
kings and queens—were dyed-in-the-wool Catholics too.
Scotsman of yore have in common with
Catholic schoolgirls today? Their tartan
skirts, of course,”says domino's Antiquarian, Louis
Bofferding. “A kilt is a type of skirt, after all, and many of
those Scottish Highlanders—leery of their Protestant English
kings and queens—were dyed-in-the-wool Catholics too.
“There are two common myths about this plaid, woolen
cloth. One is that its origins are shrouded in the mists of
time, when in fact tartan only dates from the 17th century.
The other is that, from day one, the design and color of a
particular tartan identified the wearer’s clan. But this
wasn’t the case until the 19th century—and even then,
mixing patterns was common.”
cloth. One is that its origins are shrouded in the mists of
time, when in fact tartan only dates from the 17th century.
The other is that, from day one, the design and color of a
particular tartan identified the wearer’s clan. But this
wasn’t the case until the 19th century—and even then,
mixing patterns was common.”
celtic fashion
statement
Sir Mungo Murray, scion of a
noble Scottish family, donned
several plaids when he struck
this pose around 1683. While
the patterns look good
together, the outfit is an
incongruous one—tartan kilt,
cloak and hose combined with
a doublet, blouse and hat in the
latest taste of cosmopolitan
London. Deadly accessories
(the tools of his soldier trade)
are thrown in for good
measure: gun, pistols and
sword. Murray would meet his
untimely end fighting the
Spanish in far-off Panama.
statement
Sir Mungo Murray, scion of a
noble Scottish family, donned
several plaids when he struck
this pose around 1683. While
the patterns look good
together, the outfit is an
incongruous one—tartan kilt,
cloak and hose combined with
a doublet, blouse and hat in the
latest taste of cosmopolitan
London. Deadly accessories
(the tools of his soldier trade)
are thrown in for good
measure: gun, pistols and
sword. Murray would meet his
untimely end fighting the
Spanish in far-off Panama.
rebel pose
Parliament passed the Act of
Proscription 1747, stripping Scots
of weaponry that might be used
to support the Stuarts, a native
Catholic dynasty claiming to be
rightful heirs to the throne. The
act also prohibited the wearing
of the kilts and tartans that came
to symbolize these political
aspirations. Long before the
proliferation of golf clubs, the
Macdonald boys played a round
in garb that flouted the law. But
since they were probably on one
of their father’s estates on the
Isle of Skye, the danger of being
caught was remote.
Parliament passed the Act of
Proscription 1747, stripping Scots
of weaponry that might be used
to support the Stuarts, a native
Catholic dynasty claiming to be
rightful heirs to the throne. The
act also prohibited the wearing
of the kilts and tartans that came
to symbolize these political
aspirations. Long before the
proliferation of golf clubs, the
Macdonald boys played a round
in garb that flouted the law. But
since they were probably on one
of their father’s estates on the
Isle of Skye, the danger of being
caught was remote.
out of the closet
By the time King George IV
visited Scotland in 1822, the
Stuart threat had evaporated
and native attire rehabilitated.
Kilts now struck the English
as picturesque. The king—a
great fop—slipped on local
threads for celebrated
painter Sir David Wilkie.
By the time King George IV
visited Scotland in 1822, the
Stuart threat had evaporated
and native attire rehabilitated.
Kilts now struck the English
as picturesque. The king—a
great fop—slipped on local
threads for celebrated
painter Sir David Wilkie.
home sweet home
Tartan pushed its way into interior
decoration next. In Queen Victoria's
England (she was George IV’s niece), it
was no longer “tainted” by Catholicism
and seemed more British than specifically
Scottish. At the castle of Balmoral, her
Highlands retreat, it became a common
motif for upholstery, carpeting and curtains.
Tartan pushed its way into interior
decoration next. In Queen Victoria's
England (she was George IV’s niece), it
was no longer “tainted” by Catholicism
and seemed more British than specifically
Scottish. At the castle of Balmoral, her
Highlands retreat, it became a common
motif for upholstery, carpeting and curtains.
yankee chic
In America, tartan
(unburdened by politics and
religion) was never more
than just a great-looking
fabric. This 1890s day suit
would flatter any woman—its
overscale grid highlights
those feminine curves.
In America, tartan
(unburdened by politics and
religion) was never more
than just a great-looking
fabric. This 1890s day suit
would flatter any woman—its
overscale grid highlights
those feminine curves.
on the high seas
In 1949, the Duchess of Windsor, en
route to New York, hit the first-class
deck of the Queen Elizabeth in a
tartan coat. The Duke, also a
clotheshorse, was even more
partial to plaids than his wife.
In 1949, the Duchess of Windsor, en
route to New York, hit the first-class
deck of the Queen Elizabeth in a
tartan coat. The Duke, also a
clotheshorse, was even more
partial to plaids than his wife.
a room with sass
Tartan looks romantic in traditional
interiors, snazzy in modern ones.
In the 1960s, Billy Baldwin went
full-throttle modern in the Long
Island living room of Frederick
Guest II. There, he placed a
battleship-size, tartan-upholstered
sectional, with cushions both
matching and contrasting
in acid green.
Tartan looks romantic in traditional
interiors, snazzy in modern ones.
In the 1960s, Billy Baldwin went
full-throttle modern in the Long
Island living room of Frederick
Guest II. There, he placed a
battleship-size, tartan-upholstered
sectional, with cushions both
matching and contrasting
in acid green.
prince of prep
Beginning with Plymouth Rock and ending with the rise
of meritocracy in more recent years, Anglo-Saxons
long called the shots in what’s now the U.S. But even
in these multicultural times, Ralph Lauren has tapped a
nostalgia for those highball-drinking, roadster-driving,
polo-playing descendants of the Pilgrims. Celebrating
40 years of empire, Ralph Lauren offers tartan—in
clothing and furnishings—for the modern age.
Beginning with Plymouth Rock and ending with the rise
of meritocracy in more recent years, Anglo-Saxons
long called the shots in what’s now the U.S. But even
in these multicultural times, Ralph Lauren has tapped a
nostalgia for those highball-drinking, roadster-driving,
polo-playing descendants of the Pilgrims. Celebrating
40 years of empire, Ralph Lauren offers tartan—in
clothing and furnishings—for the modern age.
In this Ralph Lauren ad from the ’90s, even
the bureau gets the tartan treatment!
the bureau gets the tartan treatment!
current fashion trends
In the 1970s, Malcolm McLaren opened
a London boutique called Let It Rock,
where Vivienne Westwood sold torn
and safety-pinned tartans that merged
punk with “ye olde” English style. Early
customers included the Sex Pistols,
who sang, with apt dissonance, “God
save the Queen/her fascist regime.” But
if the counterculture has since lost its
spark, tartan hasn’t....
In the 1970s, Malcolm McLaren opened
a London boutique called Let It Rock,
where Vivienne Westwood sold torn
and safety-pinned tartans that merged
punk with “ye olde” English style. Early
customers included the Sex Pistols,
who sang, with apt dissonance, “God
save the Queen/her fascist regime.” But
if the counterculture has since lost its
spark, tartan hasn’t....
